And while the pandemic has upended lives around the world, the clients who want to spend hundreds of thousands — or even millions — on high-end jewelry have largely been insulated from its effects. “After the last financial crisis, demonstrating wealth through spending on luxury goods was seen as vulgar and insensitive in many places,” Mr. Berg wrote.

“So far, we cannot see that effect during the course of the pandemic. In many developed regions, the middle class and the affluent have been less affected,” he added. “To the contrary, many have increased their savings rate due to lack of opportunity to spend (no travel, no restaurant visits, etc.). Therefore, spending money on luxury goods is seen by many as a reward.”

Louis Vuitton introduced its first high jewelry collection in 2009, but the diamonds represent the first opportunity for clients to participate in the entire bespoke process: from the rough stones all the way through working on final designs with Francesca Amfitheatrof, Vuitton’s artistic director of jewelry and watches.

From New York Times

BLUE

Throughout history, blue diamonds have been the stuff of legends. Among the many storied examples include a dark blue diamond sold in the seventeenth century sold by Jean Baptiste Tavernier to King Louis XIV of France, a stone originally called the Tavernier Blue, and then the French Blue as a part of the French Crown Jewels. Then there’s the famed Hope Diamond, purchased by Henry Phillip Hope in 1830, which research studies suggest may have been recut from the lost French Blue, only adding to its mystique.

The distinctive hue of the blue diamonds is often attributed to the trace of boron within the crystal, and Type IIb classification means that the diamond contains few to no nitrogen impurities. The Hope Diamond is an example of Type IIb, as is Lot 1654 a heart-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond of 5.04 carats. Because of its formation, every faceting process of a blue diamond demands extreme care and precision. The rough will likely be asymmetrical with color zoning, which presents unique challenges to the cutter as they balance the best color, carat weight and the type of cut for each stone.

PINK

Pink diamonds are particularly mysterious even among color diamonds. Theories dive deep into the crystal structure of the stone. While nitrogen and boron are responsible for the vivid hues of yellow and blue diamonds, respectively, there is no evidence that pink diamonds receive their color from trace elements. Rather, the crystal structure of the stone selectively absorbs light as a result of an idiosyncratic lattice defect which results in an unusual arrangement of atoms in the crystal. These happy anomalies occasionally cause pink graining in the diamond crystal – a perfectly brilliant display of imperfection. The intensity of the color depends on the amount of pink graining present. The color is generally concentrated within parallel narrow bands called glide planes which diamond cutters intricately orient perpendicular to the table in order to maximize body color.
The diversity of pink hues adds to the diamond’s character of distinctive individuality. Pink diamonds often have a secondary color such as orange, purple or brown. While such colors are highly attractive and valuable, rarest among pink diamonds are those with no modifying color. The pink occurs across range of hues. However, only at certain saturation and tones can the diamonds attain classification as pink within the reddish purple to orange hue range. Lot 1807 represents the most exemplary hue, tone and saturation, receiving the highest color grading from GIA for pink diamonds, fancy vivid pink. Bearing a lovely heart shape, this stone possesses internally flawless clarity and most importantly, stunning fancy vivid pink color, accentuating the immaculate nature of this highly collectible colored diamond.

YELLOW

Color diamonds contain impurities or structural defects within the chemical composition. In the case of yellow diamonds, nitrogen is incorporated into their carbon crystal structure. These nitrogen impurities give a diamond its yellow color as they modify light and absorb the blue part of the visible spectrum. When there is a large amount of nitrogen present within the stone the diamond ceases to become a M-Z colored diamond and becomes a fancy color diamond. All fancy color diamonds follow the same color grading scale: Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, and Fancy Vivid. As the color concentration increases within the stone, so does its value.

‘All the colors of flowers and foliage and even the blue sky and the glory of the sunset clouds, only last for a short time, and are subject to continual change, but the sheen and coloration of precious stones are the same to-day as they were thousands of years ago and will be for thousands of years to come. In a world of change, this permanence has a charm of its own that was early appreciated.’
– G.F. KUNZ, 1913

OTHER COLORS

In addition to the above three colors, different interactions of rare earth elements, structural shifts and even natural radiation may result in surprising color combinations, with diverse modifying colors that represent every hue in the spectrum. Colour diamonds are a wonder of nature, each possessing a unique composition and variations that dictate rarity, value and desirability. Find more of these most radiant gems from Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels auction on 10 July 2020.

From Sotheby’s

Shine bright like a yellow diamond? But actually. Your S.O. knew that if he or she liked it they should put a colored ring on it. Gemstones in every color of the rainbow are quickly becoming a girl’s best friend.

Almandine Garnet

These deep, wine red gemstones have a very special symbolism—the unity of passion and serenity. Wearing one is a promise that you will unconditionally love and protect your partner.

Aquamarine

Also called blue beryl, aquamarine is the bright vivid color of a tropical ocean. Symbolizing courage and communication, this gemstone reminds you to express your love for one another on a daily basis—be it through words or actions.

Blue Sapphire

These regal gemstones are fit for royalty. Princess Diana and Kate both chose this blue stone over traditional white diamonds. Meaning: You’ll always be honest and loyal to each other.

Blue Topaz

A symbol of peace and tranquility, loyalty and eternal love, blue topaz will serve as a reminder to stay true to yourself. Keep your unique sparkle alive and your partner will always be intrigued.

Champagne Diamond

The unofficial name for golden brown diamonds, champagne diamonds are both elegant and modern. They represent a commitment to always finding reasons to celebrate together and being each other’s biggest cheerleaders.

Citrine

Also known as lemon quartz, this yellow gemstone sparkles with joy. Symbolizing happiness and prosperity, it encourages you to live life to the fullest and to pour your entire heart and soul into marriage.

Emerald

The green variety of beryl, natural emeralds always have a little garden of fine inclusions. As one of the most auspicious gemstones for a wedding ring, emerald symbolizes a happy and successful marriage.

Moonstone

At first glance, moonstone may appear pure white, but move them slightly and an iridescent blue rainbow flashes across the surface. It signifies that your love will last a lifetime while guiding you throughout life’s many changes.

Morganite

These ultra-feminine gemstones are, dare we say it, having a wedding moment. Sometimes called pink emerald, morganite is a variety of beryl. It means that your match was made in heaven and that the two of you will live happily ever after.

Opal

These opulent stones shimmer with a fiery rainbow. They have long been associated with desire and passion, love and loyalty.

Peridot

This merry green stone seems to light up with laughter. A secret message between you and your lover, it playfully says, “I know who you are, I trust you, and I love you dearly!”

Pink Diamond

Among the rarest of gemstones, pink diamonds symbolize love and creativity. Wear it with confidence, knowing that your wedding will be flawless and your marriage full of pleasant surprises.

Pink Sapphire

Perfect for the feminine bride who dreams of true love and lifelong romance. This pink gemstone signifies that you will always be kind, loving, and thoughtful toward one another.

Pink Tourmaline

Tourmalines are available in every shade of the rainbow, but when it comes to engagement rings, nothing compares to pink tourmaline. This vivid pink gemstone serves as a constant reminder to always trust in the power of love.

Prasiolite

The green variety of quartz, prasiolite, is also sometimes called green amethyst. It stands for the hope that true love exists and that you have found it in each other.

Rose Quartz

This beautiful pink gemstone embodies unconditional love. For the true romantic, this stone carries all the highest and most loving energies.

Ruby

Did you know that a ruby is actually a red sapphire? The most precious form of Corundum, red ruby is the ultimate symbol of passionate love.

Tanzanite

This rare purple/blue gemstone has only been found in a single mine in Tanzania, Africa. It has been called the “stone of magic” and wearing it on your ring finger means your life together will be a real-life fairy-tale.

Tsavorite

The most expensive type of garnet is this green variety found on the border of Kenya and Tanzania near the Tsavo National Park. It reminds you that you deserve to be happy in love and that life is a never-ending adventure.

Yellow Diamond

If white diamonds signify pure love, then consider yellow diamonds the exclamation point to every love story. It promises you will always be best friends and playmates, as well as lovers.

From BRIDES online magazine

by Stacy Conradt – Mentafloss.com

On September 11, 1792, the Hope Diamond was stolen from the house that stored the crown jewels. It’s a pretty fascinating little bauble—particularly if you’re the sort of person who is impressed by 45.52 carat gems—but you probably wouldn’t want to own it, as it’s supposedly cursed.

The story goes that the curse began with the Tavernier Blue, which was the precursor to several large diamonds, including the Hope Diamond. Take this with a grain of salt, because it’s never been proved: Jean-Baptiste Tavernier stole the 115.16 carat blue diamond from a Hindu statue, where it was serving as one of the eyes. Upon discovering it was missing, priests put a curse on whoever was in possession of the gem—which has included a fair amount of people over the years.

1. JEAN-BAPTISTE TAVERNIER

The story goes that French gem merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier came down with a raging fever soon after stealing the diamond, and after he died, his body was possibly ravaged by wolves. However, other reports show that he lived until the ripe old age of 84, so…

2. KING LOUIS XIV

King Louis XIV bought the stone from Tavernier and had it recut in 1673. It was then known as “The Blue Diamond of the Crown” or the “French Blue.” King Louis died of gangrene and all of his legitimate children died in childhood, except for one (though that wasn’t necessarily atypical in those times).

3. NICHOLAS FOUQUET

Nicholas Fouquet, who worked for King Louis XIV, is said to have worn the diamond for a special occasion. Shortly thereafter, he fell out of favor with the king and was banished from France. The king then changed this sentence to life imprisonment, so Fouquet spent 15 years in the fortress of Pignerol. Some people believe that he was the real Man in the Iron Mask, but other accounts dispute this.

4. AND 5. LOUIS XVI AND MARIE ANTOINETTE

Louis XVI inherited the French Blue, Marie Antoinette wore it, and I think we all know what happened there. That’s the story, anyway; we have no photographic evidence that Marie wore the gem.

6. MARIE-LOUISE, PRINCESS DE LAMBALLE

Marie-Louise, Princess de Lamballe, was a member of Marie Antoinette’s court and was her closest confidante. She was killed by a mob in a most horrific fashion—apparently hit with a hammer, decapitated, stripped, and disemboweled, among other things. Her head was impaled on a pike and carried to Marie Antoinette’s prison window.

7. WILHELM FALS

In a gilded ballroom at the Four Seasons hotel in Geneva last month, the world’s wealthiest collectors and their envoys gathered to bid on the final and most anticipated lot: a nearly 19-carat cotton-candy colored diamond called the Pink Legacy.

As the stunning rectangular-cut gem, set in a ring with two white diamond side stones, appeared on stage in its own illuminated glass case, the crowd of more than 500 hushed. Then the frenzied bidding began, quickly surpassing the auction house’s low estimate of $30 million, as four clients — two in the room, two others on the phone — topped one another’s outrageous offers until, finally, the gavel dropped.

Rahul Kadakia, international head of jewelry for Christie’s and the auctioneer who ran the sale, gestured to the winner in the front row: “Sold for you, sir!”

The winner got it at $50 million, it was a record-breaking price per carat for a pink stone.

“It’s my business to hope and dream for stones like this,” Kadakia told The Post a few weeks after the sale. “If I’m at Christie’s for another 25 years, I won’t see another like it.”

His excitement came down to the stone’s impressive legacy — it was once owned by the Oppenheimers, the so-called “first family of diamonds” who helmed De Beers for almost a century — as well as the shocking color. Graded as “fancy vivid,” the highest level of color intensity for a diamond, “the whole room turned pink” the first time Kadakia saw it, he said.

The prices of pink diamonds — as well as those of their naturally candy-colored cousins in blue, green and red — are skyrocketing, increasingly making white diamonds seem like the people’s stones.

Colored diamonds are so much rarer than the colorless ones that the highest-quality pinks regularly command millions of dollars more per carat than a traditional rock. A whopping 163-carat flawless white diamond called the Art of De Grisogono, Creation I, sold for “just” $34 million back in 2017 — $16 million less than the comparatively little Pink Legacy.

Even among colored diamonds, pinks are special, because they’re “just a total fluke of nature,” said a Beverly Hills jeweler and gemstone consultant.

White diamonds are pure carbon, baked to crystalline perfection through a combination of extreme heat and pressure. The other shades are caused by impurities in the stone’s molecular structure — boron turns diamonds blue, nitrogen adds traces of yellow — but nobody knows exactly what makes a diamond blush.

Richly hued reds are on the same mysterious spectrum as pinks, and are even rarer still. Fewer than 30 red diamonds are known to exist.

Pinks — which can be salmon-colored, violet-tinged, or pure bubble gum, like the Pink Legacy — are more common than reds, but still, they consistently rank among the world’s most desirable gems.

They’ve been the diamonds of kings since the 17th century, when Jean Baptiste Tavernier, the famed French gem merchant and writer, spotted a 200-carat rough pink stone at the jewel markets in Golconda, India.

At the time, this eastern river town was the only place on the planet to find diamonds. Tavernier — who visited there frequently and often sold the stones he purchased to Louis XIV — didn’t buy this one, but was so awed by it that he described it in his book, “The Six Voyages.”

Although historians aren’t absolutely certain, it’s believed that the pink diamond he called “The Great Table” was eventually cut into two smaller ones, called the Daria-i-Noor and the Noor-ul-Ain, which are now both a part of the Iranian Crown Jewels.

The prolific South African diamond mines were discovered centuries later, in the late 1800s, and prompted the formation of De Beers. There, from the dusty depths of a De Beers-owned mine — there were many at the time — the stone that became the Pink Legacy emerged.

By then, other pink diamonds had been found, and each one would have been a rosy surprise and a cause for celebration. Experts believe the Pink Legacy was hand-cut to sparkling perfection in the 1930s, and it hasn’t been touched since.

Then, probably 20 or 30 years ago, the Oppenheimer family sold the Pink Legacy to a private collector, who chose to remain anonymous all the way through the Christie’s auction.

Other owners of exquisite pinks haven’t been quite so private.

In recent years, pink diamonds have become a micro-trend among gem-flaunting celebrities, including former tennis pro Anna Kournikova, who sports an 11-carat pear-shaped sweet-pink diamond engagement ring from husband Enrique Iglesias.

Actress Blake Lively also wears a pale, 12-carat oval-cut pink engagement ring, and Victoria Beckham has one, too: a peachy-pink oval stone that’s just one of the many exquisite baubles she’s received from husband David over the course of their almost 20-year marriage.

There’s also the pink diamond that made a thousand headlines: Jennifer Lopez’s engagement ring from Ben Affleck in 2002. At the time, the 6.1-carat rock cost a reported $1.2 million and captivated the public because the color made for such an original choice. (When the couple known as “Bennifer” split up in 2004, Lopez reportedly gave the prize sparkler back.)

Now, thanks in part to celebrity interest, prices of pink diamonds continue to rise. The Bennifer ring would undoubtedly cost a whole lot more in 2018.

Recently, the appreciation has been quite rapid: Just three years ago, a pink diamond almost identical to the Pink Legacy called the Sweet Josephine went for $28 million at Christie’s, breaking the record for the highest price per carat for a pink diamond. It sold to Joseph Lau, a notorious Hong Kong billionaire and convicted money launderer, who bought it from an unidentified American owner and named it for his then-7-year-old daughter, Josephine.

As for the highest price ever paid for a pink, that honor goes to the nearly 60-carat, flawless Pink Star, which sold for $71 million with Sotheby’s Hong Kong in 2017.

Today, demand among the world’s wealthiest for these blushing gems is at an all-time high, which begins to explain why the Pink Legacy commanded almost double the price of the Sweet Josephine. It comes down to the desires of the ballooning global elite.

A rep for Rio Tinto confirmed that over the past 18 years, prices for pinks have jumped 400 percent.

That’s the way the diamond industry works — even if a company keeps the stone in a vault most of the time, trotting it out at a store or a museum every once in a while, the simple fact of owning it lends power-player status.

As for buyers of less important pink diamonds: “It’s definitely still a one-percenter-type market,” said Ben Smithee, a jewelry branding expert who has worked with Rio Tinto as well as other industry heavy-hitters. (Synthetic pink diamonds do exist, but like all lab-grown stones, they’re cheaper, considered much less prestigious, and whether or not they’ll hold their value at all is a matter of heated debate.)

On the other hand, “A [natural] pink diamond is basically the same thing as Banksy” for gem collectors, said Smithee.

But while Banksy is still creating, the Argyle Mine is shutting down as soon as 2020. The mine is depleting, which means that soon, operations will no longer be economically viable.

“The probability of finding another mine like Argyle, that produces pinks, is nil,” said Lieberherr. “It’s like a work of art. The painter is dying. The product can only appreciate now.”

from the NY Post

Scientists have found evidence that diamonds formed in several ways.

Around 90 miles (145 km) below the surface in areas of the Earth’s mantle, temperatures reach 2,000° F (1,093° C). Diamonds form at these depths at those temperatures and under extremely high pressure, then fast-moving magma from deep-source volcanic eruptions bring them to the surface.

Very small diamonds have also been found in rocks from tectonic plates (large areas of the Earth crust) subducted into the Earth’s mantle and then returned to the surface.

Asteroid impact sites have yielded tiny diamonds as well. Researchers believe that the temperature and pressure from these impacts may suffice to form diamonds.

Diamonds also occur extra-terrestrially. Some meteorites contain microscopic diamonds not formed by impacts. In 2004, astronomers discovered a white dwarf star in the constellation Centaurus that has crystallized into a diamond. “Lucy,” as astronomers have nicknamed this remnant, has a diameter of 2,500 miles (4.023 km) and weighs 10 billion trillion trillion carats!

Does Coal Play a Role in Forming Diamonds?

Although both coal and diamond contain primarily carbon, the answer is likely no. Most coal is a byproduct of terrestrial plants, particularly forests. The earliest known land plants date back only 450 million years. According to geology.com, almost every diamond dated so far predates the evolution of terrestrial plants by at least 100 million years.

Where Does the Word “Diamond” Come From?

Early civilizations, including the Ancient Greeks, recognized the beauty and strength of diamonds. Our word “diamond” comes from the Greek adjective adamas which means “unbreakable” or “indestructible.” According to Merriam-Webster:

Latin writers borrowed these Greek words, sometimes as adamant. The forms adamant-, adamas in time gave us the English noun “adamant,” meaning “an imaginary stone of great hardness,” and the adjective … meaning “firmly fixed or decided.” The “i” forms in Latin were later changed from adimant-, adimas to diamant-, diamas and came to be used only for the gemstone which we now call diamond.

Diamond Markets

Many early civilizations, such as Ancient Greece, recognized the beauty and strength of diamonds. Valued for their strength and brilliance, diamonds were carried by traders along the Silk Road. Artisans also prized them for their practical applications. Diamonds can engrave metal and act as cutting tools. In Europe during the Dark Ages, people also believed diamonds had healing powers.

In the 19th century, diamonds were in high demand. Until the 18th century, India was the only known source, then diamonds were discovered in Brazil in 1725. In 1871, the discovery of a diamond over 20 carats by a teenager in South Africa brought about a radical change. After that find came another in the same area, this one over 80 carats. These discoveries set off a rush, and the Kimberley Mine was established near Cape Town, South Africa.

The Effect of the Kimberley Mine

With the development of the Kimberley Mine, the diamond markets became oversupplied. As a result, wealthy consumers no longer considered diamonds rare. Instead, they favored emeralds, sapphires, and rubies for their jewelry. Diamond values plummeted. 

The De Beers corporation formed during this time and began attempting to control the diamond supply. However, they weren’t immediately successful, and diamond values stayed low until diamonds became more popular through a later De Beers marketing campaign.

Diamonds and Engagement Rings

While the use of a ring to signify an intent to marry dates back at the latest to Ancient Rome, in 1215, Pope Innocent III declared weddings must be preceded by an engagement period, with a ring publicly signaling the engagement. However, during these times, and before the 20th century in general, only the wealthy could use diamonds or other gemstones in their engagement rings.

The attempts by De Beers to control the diamond market bore fruit in the late 1940s, when they introduced a highly targeted marketing campaign. With the tagline, “A Diamond is Forever,” this campaign connected — very successfully — love, engagement rings, and diamonds in the public imagination. De Beers’s manipulation of the supply of diamonds available for purchase led consumers to believe diamonds are rare and, therefore, valuable. (In fact, many gemstones occur far more rarely than diamonds). These combined efforts made diamonds the only choice for engagement rings in the eyes of many, thus increasing the popularity and prices of these gems.

From International Gem Society